Keep a dated record of what changed, where it appeared, and what happened nearby, supported by clear photographs taken from repeatable positions. Send the arborist a short timeline and your most useful images; you do not need to identify the cause before making contact. The goal is to preserve information that may be difficult to reconstruct later. A picture of a sparse crown, for example, becomes more useful when paired with the date, an older comparison image, and a note that excavation occurred nearby. Records support an assessment, but they cannot establish whether a tree is safe or replace an examination. Do not wait to build a history if a tree presents an apparent immediate danger. Stay away from hanging or broken limbs and downed utility lines. Contact the utility about a tree affecting its lines, and seek prompt professional help for serious storm damage or a sudden structural change. What should you record first? Start with a simple tree identifier and location: “large maple beside the east driveway,” for example. If you are unsure of the species, say so. Add a wide photograph showing the tree in its surroundings, and note nearby features such as a house, parking space, path, or utility line. This helps the arborist understand both which tree concerns you and what could be affected if a branch or the tree fails. Write down the date you first noticed a change and, separately, the last date you remember the tree looking different. Those dates are not necessarily the same. If you only noticed a crack in October, an honest entry is “first noticed October 12; do not know when it appeared.” An older photograph may later narrow the interval, but it should not be treated as proof that an obscured feature was absent. Describe what you can see before suggesting a cause. “Brown leaves on the upper left side” is more useful than a confident diagnosis of disease. Note whether the change affects one branch, one side, or much of the crown, and whether nearby trees show something similar. Include uncertainty instead of filling gaps from memory. Observation | Useful details to record | Question it can help answer Leaves and crown | Location of discoloration, thinning, early leaf drop, or dead branches; date and season | Is the change localized or widespread, and when was it noticed? Trunk and major branches | Visible cracks, wounds, cavities, or fungal growth; location and dated photos | Which feature needs closer examination? Ground and root area | Visible soil lifting, exposed or damaged roots, excavation, or changed drainage | Has the ground around the tree changed? Site context | Nearby structures, paths, parked vehicles, and utility lines | What might be exposed if part of the tree fails? How do you take photos that can be compared? Take a wide view of the entire tree where possible, then a medium view that locates the feature on the trunk or crown, followed by a clear close view if it can be taken safely. A close-up alone may show a crack or unusual growth but leave the arborist unable to tell where it is. Use the camera’s zoom from a safe position rather than standing beneath a suspect branch. For follow-up photographs, use the same viewpoint and framing when practical. Record the position in plain language, such as “from the front gate, facing the driveway.” Include a fixed landmark in the frame so you can match later images. Comparable photos can reveal an apparent change, although differences in camera angle, distance, lighting, and seasonal foliage can also affect appearances. If a safe, accessible feature needs a sense of scale, include an everyday object beside it without touching or disturbing the tree. Do not approach an unstable area just to add a ruler. Keep the original dated files, and label copies with the tree identifier and view, such as “driveway maple, trunk, south side.” Avoid marking or cutting bark to make a photograph clearer. Photograph the whole crown as well as the affected area. A picture from one side may conceal dead branches or make a sparse section seem larger than it is. If neighboring property is visible, frame carefully and share images only with people who need them. Which events belong in the timeline? Record significant events with their dates or best estimates: a storm, unusually dry or wet conditions, pruning, a vehicle strike, or work on a driveway. For construction or landscaping, note where digging, soil movement, equipment traffic, or changes to drainage occurred in relation to the tree. A sketch or a photograph showing the work area can be more helpful than an imprecise statement that construction happened “nearby.” Include relevant care and treatments if known: when watering changed, what pruning was done, and the name and application date of any product used on the tree or surrounding lawn. Keep receipts or labels if available. If you do not know what a contractor applied, record the contractor’s name and the approximate date so the arborist can tell you whether the missing information matters. The International Society of Arboriculture identifies root damage, soil compaction, changes to grade and drainage, and injuries to trunks and crowns among possible effects of construction. A timeline can help an arborist investigate such possibilities; it does not prove that any particular event caused the visible symptoms. What would a useful record look like? Consider a hypothetical homeowner concerned about a maple beside a driveway. Their entry reads: “May 3: leaves on the driveway side look smaller and fewer than on the garden side. First noticed today. Photo taken from front gate. Driveway replaced last September; digging occurred between driveway and tree. Exact depth unknown.” They attach a current wide photo, a closer crown photo, and an older summer photo taken from a similar position. A later entry might say: “June 14: same side still appears sparse; no obvious change in other side. Photograph taken from front gate.” This separates an observation from an assumption that excavation damaged the roots. It also gives the arborist a location to inspect and a question to investigate. The record has limits. The older image might be from a different season, the excavation may have been farther from roots than it appears, and important changes may be hidden underground or inside the tree. The arborist may need a site visit or further investigation rather than a photo-based conclusion. When should you contact an arborist instead of continuing to monitor? Contact an arborist when you notice concerning changes rather than waiting for a perfect set of records. Discolored leaves, dead branches, and early leaf drop can all justify a conversation. Cracks or splits in major parts of a tree, fungal growth on the trunk, and soil lifting around a leaning tree also warrant attention. The significance of a visible feature varies, so a photograph or checklist cannot determine the level of risk. A sudden lean, newly lifted soil, a large hanging limb, or damage close to a building or frequently used area calls for prompt action. Keep people and movable belongings away from the potentially affected area where this can be done safely, and describe the situation when contacting a professional. Stay clear of electrical lines and contact the utility if lines are involved; do not prune near them yourself. A slower change may allow time to assemble earlier pictures and care records, but do not use a calendar reminder as a substitute for advice. Ask the arborist how soon the tree should be examined and whether any interim precautions are appropriate. An arborist familiar with tree risk assessment can consider the tree, the potential for failure, and what could be affected. What should you send before the visit? Send a concise message with the tree’s location, your main concern, when you first noticed it, and any apparent recent change. Attach a few labeled images: a whole-tree view, a view locating the concern, and a clear detail. Add the brief timeline and mention nearby buildings, occupied areas, or lines. Ask whether the arborist wants more images or records before the appointment. Explain your objective as well as your concern: you may want to understand whether the tree can be retained, what care is appropriate, or whether a particular branch creates a risk. The TreeWorkGuide tree assessment guide can help frame the decision between seeking an assessment and considering removal; your dated observations give the arborist context for discussing that decision. At the visit, ask what the arborist can and cannot determine from the inspection, what options are available, and whether further assessment or follow-up is recommended. Keep their written findings with your photos and add the date of any work. If monitoring is advised, agree on what changes should prompt an earlier call and when to review the tree again. Sources • Managing Hazards and Risk • Recognizing Tree Risk • Tree Health • Safe Response to Tree-Related Storm Damage • Source for: Construction can damage roots, compact soil, alter grade and drainage, and injure trunks and crowns. • Source for: A history of symptom onset, affected areas, weather, construction, watering and chemical application • Source for: Wide, intermediate and close photographs provide useful diagnostic context, and repeat photographs f • Source for: Photos and visible symptoms may be insufficient to determine a tree’s condition or safety, and furth